From labs to lookalikes: what you need to know about ‘sustainable’ diamonds

If you think of luxury, you might picture something valuable and exquisite. For some people, a sparkling diamond embodies luxury. Although the tradition of wearing wedding and engagement rings dates back centuries, the tagline "A Diamond is Forever" from a De Beers advertisement from 1947 is largely responsible for the diamond's status as the pinnacle of premarital luxury.

Diamonds have been popular ever since. In the early 2000s, 1,8 million engagement rings were sold annually in the United States, with diamonds appearing in 96% of those bands. Since the COVID-19 lockdowns' darkest days have passed, demand for diamonds and other luxury items related to marriage has skyrocketed, as has the price that lovers are ready to pay.

However, if a diamond was mined, it may have a tragic history in addition to its beautiful appearance. Consumers now wonder whether a lab-grown diamond is a better choice or even if a diamond is suitable for them due to a variety of ethical and environmental issues surrounding diamond mining, such as ecological degradation and human rights violations.

Some diamond producers have steadfastly maintained that mined diamonds are preferable than lab-grown diamonds, but as consumer alternatives increase, figuring out what's "best" for you and the environment may be difficult.

The effects of diamond mining on the environment and morality

The environmental and social effects of diamond mining may be quite severe. Pipe, alluvial, and sea mining techniques are all used to extract diamonds. Open-pit mining (which results in enormous earth-sized holes like the Kimberley Big Hole in South Africa) and subterranean mining are the two types of piping. The procedure of screening through gravel for rough diamonds used in alluvial mining can result in increased runoff and river pollution. Last but not least, marine necessitates mining diamonds from the ocean floor, which in certain areas, like Namibia, may make up the majority of their diamond production. However, this procedure destroys kelp beds and reefs, having effects akin to dredging.

Resources are needed for these procedures. The average quantity of carbon dioxide produced by a mined diamond per karat is around 108.5 kg, while the average amount of earth taken ranges from 250 to 1750 per karat, according to a 2021 research from Imperial College London. Additionally, mining operations have the potential to disturb nearby ecosystems, emit toxins into the air and water, and generate a lot of noise. The authors claim that mining produces "irreparable harm to the natural ecosystem" that is manifested in adverse effects on wildlife, soil quality, water resources, air quality, and climate change.

The negative effects of diamond mining extend beyond the ecosystem. The diamond business has long been associated with labor exploitation, as evidenced by the Petra Diamonds scandal in Tanzania and the De Beers issue over "blood diamonds" (diamonds that are mined in conflict areas and potentially support violent conflicts) in the late 1990s. Governments implemented the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme over 20 years ago to put a stop to the trade in "conflict" or "blood" diamonds, which had caused several problems throughout the African continent. However, Human Rights Watch claims that there are still some significant problems with abuse, forced labor, and underpayment in places with a lot of diamond production. Due to the situation in Ukraine, there is now a campaign to have Russian diamonds banned or designated as "conflict" diamonds. These worries have even resulted in import restrictions on gems and gold from some nations that are linked to forced labor.

It might be challenging to see a diamond as a symbol of love when imperialism, environmental damage, and conflict are all looming above them. However, when local communities are taken into account, Kyle Simon, GIA diamonds graduate and co-founder of jewelry brand Clear Cut, asserts that mining sectors may have a favorable influence on the local economy. According to the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development, Botswana is one of these exceptional circumstances. The once underdeveloped African country today controls 15% of De Beers Diamonds and 50% of the firm that conducts real mining operations. Education, healthcare, and infrastructure all get money from the diamond business. Even so, pinpointing the specific origin of your diamond might be difficult.

Diamond substitutes are popular now.

If you conduct a fast search for ethical or sustainable diamonds, lab-grown diamonds may come up top. Yes, diamonds no longer form underground over the course of billions of years. They don't need to be mined at all because they can be produced quite effectively in a lab anyplace. At least chemically, physiologically, and aesthetically, they are still "genuine" diamonds. According to lab-grown diamond manufacturer Clean Origin, the technology to produce artificial diamonds has existed since the 1950s, but has only lately gained popularity as a substitute for diamonds that are mined. A lab-grown diamond typically costs around 30% less than a diamond that was mined.

One of two processes, chemical vapor deposition or high pressure high temperature (HPHT), is used to produce synthetic diamonds (CVD). According to jewelry firm Ritani, the HPHT technique, which was first used to create lab diamonds, involves encasing a microscopic diamond in carbon and heating the "seed" to over 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit at pressures of over 1.5 million pounds per square inch. The little diamond's surrounding carbon eventually transforms into a diamond, creating a larger, more sparkling diamond.

The "seed" is instead placed in a vacuum chamber with carbon-filled gases and heat of about 1500 degrees Fahrenheit for CVD. Type IIA diamonds, also known as hyper chemically pure diamonds, are created when the carbon in the gas transforms into plasma and layers onto the diamond seed. Type IIA diamonds are quite difficult to locate in the wild.

According to Janie Marshall, Head of Brand at Clean Origin, "Since lab-grown diamonds are created in the same way as mined diamonds, under high heat with pure carbon, and are chemically, aesthetically, and physically identical to mined diamonds, we evaluate that there is no reason to continue these dangerous mining practices in engagement rings and fine diamond jewelry."

Lab-grown diamonds are not environmentally friendly due to concerns about the energy consumption of diamond-making labs, as well as the effectiveness and cleanliness of the two methods (some argue that CVD is the more environmentally friendly option, while 50–60% of lab-grown diamonds are still made using HPHT). The energy needed in the lab is enormous, Simon observes. Therefore, you are simulating a process that took billions of years to occur in a laboratory.

Not to mention, according to independent diamond expert Paul Zimnisky, present regulations for the lab-grown diamond business are "the Wild West right now." He said, "There is a lot of disinformation, with some firms pushing them as an environmentally better product, and regulatory bodies don't always know how to deal with them yet.

Another concern is how to sell your lab-grown diamond because there isn't the same demand for them as there is for mined diamonds.

According to Simon, "a lot of individuals are genuinely hunting for old diamonds, and those will be recycled through the market repeatedly." Because lab-grown products have little value, there isn't much of a resale market. People are sort of encouraged to simply keep manufacturing and generate more as a result.

Moissanite, white sapphires, and cubic zirconia are a few alternatives that aren't diamonds at all. Additionally created in a lab, moissanite is almost as hard as a diamond (9.25 on the Mohs scale; a diamond is a 10), but it is far less expensive. According to Don O'Connell, president and chief executive officer of moissanite manufacturer Charles & Colvard, a moissanite costs around one-tenth as much as its diamond equivalent. However, they are also produced in a lab, which has some of the same issues as diamonds generated in a lab.

Similar to diamonds, other dazzling white stones like white sapphires are similarly more reasonably priced, less desirable, and less contentious—but don't sparkle as a real or lab-created diamond would. White sapphires are significantly less expensive than diamonds compared to moissanite. Like diamonds, sapphires may be created in a lab or mined. One carat of cubic zirconia costs about $20, making it by far the most economical alternative; however, it does have a propensity to wear out or scratch and would need to be replaced on a regular basis.

Final judgment

Using what you already have or purchasing used products is the most sustainable choice for almost any goods. Therefore, look at some possibilities that have already been cherished for a few years if you're searching for a gemstone or jewelry of any type, whether lab-created or natural. Even an old classic might be given a slight makeover by being placed on a new band. Pre-owned engagement rings, bands, and loose stones are frequently available in large selections at secondhand stores. Look around antique jewelry stores or on Etsy if you're seeking for something old.

But if a fresh diamond is really necessary, it is imperative to examine its origins carefully, whether they are mined or produced in a lab.

There are too many ethical and sustainability issues with historical diamond mining to ignore, but there are still many unanswered questions about lab-grown diamonds.